Ulaanbaatar

There is an ancient Indian Yogic text called the Bhagavad Gita. In it it says that it is better to live your own destiny imperfectly than it is to live somebody else's with perfection.

Imperfectly, clumsily, happily, and often with much confusion, I have journeyed this far on 11 trains to reach Mongolia's capital Ulaanbaatar. It was -16 degrees C when I arrived. It is cold; cold beyond cold.

To the south of Ulaanbaatar there are mountains and this is the view from my hotel room window on the 12th floor at 7.30am this morning (half past midnight UK time).

The journey across Russia from Moscow took 6 days, 5 nights, on a train. I think it has been 5000km to get here, at an average 46 mph according to the guide book. I know there are mixed units there, sorry, I'm in an Internet cafe in Mongolia being gloriously imperfect, what more do you want...?

I travelled along the 55 degree North line most of the way. The landscape for the first four days was flat, golden plains covered in silver birch trees. When we reached the place marked 'Ural Mountains' on the map I was excited. I was looking forward to seeing some hills. Unfortunately at 500m above sea level the Ural Mountains passed by relatively unnoticed.

It was on reaching Lake Baikal yesterday that my desire for mountains was satisfied and, boy, what mountains they are - a real take-your-breath-away moment. Lake Baikal holds one fifth of the Earth's fresh water and to see it like this, backed by snow covered mountains in the sunrise, was a sight I will never forget. It was like one hundred thousand Lake Districts rolled into one.

The train in itself is an adventure, meeting people at the start of their journeys, and people at the end. The heating and hot water is coal fired in each carriage, and washing facilities are simple. Food is bought from Baboushkas at train stations or kiosks, or in the expensively comfortable restaurant car.

I would find it difficult to answer the question 'What is Siberia like?'. Places are often compared to Scotland, and maybe there is something Scottish in the pine tree wooded hills, but silver birches are more common than pine trees. And there are not many hills through most of the Siberia that I have seen. It is cold, and snow covered, and the homes are small and wooden with steep roofs, so maybe something of Switzerland. Perhaps. I have never been to Switzerland and can only compare with tour-guide style photos. All I can say with honesty is that Siberia is uniquely Siberia. In November it is cold. Away from moscow it is friendly. Near to Mongolia there are mountains. It is beautiful. It is big.

I leave tomorrow for 10 days horse trekking in the Gobi plains and will be out of contact for a while. Before I leave I would like to write some more, but if I don't then 'Adieu' for now. Stay safe...I intend to.